Latin Cuisine with Soul | The Source Weekly - Bend, Oregon

Latin Cuisine with Soul

Chupacabra Restaurant adds vibrant deliciousness to Central Oregon, from the former Tortilleria Reyes location

The thing about the Bend restaurant scene is that people opening new spots tend to see what works, and then they do something similar. A lot of safe bets. That's why Central Oregon has so many breweries, pizza places and Mexican food restaurants. The cynic might say that we have enough of those types of food, but I say as long as we keep getting quality as well as quantity, then all is well. In fact, as long as we keep getting places like Chupacabra Restaurant and Tortilleria (in the spot previously held by Tortilleria Reyes), then we're downright lucky.

For years, Bend's best-kept secret Mexican food spot was Tortilleria Reyes, in an unassuming strip mall on SW Division Street. A combination grocery store, bakery, tortilla factory and restaurant, Tortilleria Reyes filled a much-needed hole in Bend's collective tummy. I wrote about Tortilleria Reyes back in 2014 (I've been at this paper a while) and said, "Tortilleria Reyes is Bend's best Mexican food. Period. I experienced more flavors in 30 minutes than I have in my entire 15 years living in Central Oregon." When I heard they sold, I was sad to say the least.

click to enlarge Latin Cuisine with Soul
Olver Zuñiga
Mariscos.

So, let me ease my fellow Reyes' enthusiasts' fears by saying Chupacabra has kept a few key ingredients of the dearly departed spot exactly the same, while improving upon several others. In fact, Chupacabra has taken over without missing a beat. They're still putting out incredible burritos and tacos, but also with a focus on roasted meats like Beef Asada Molcajete, full roasted chicken and carnitas. They also still make fresh tortillas onsite, so that every burrito and taco comes with a tortilla so fresh that it melts in your mouth.

New owner Olver Zuñiga wants to bring the heart of Mexico into the heart of Bend. "Chupacabra has its name to honor Mexican culture, and we have the Chef [Armando] Enrique [Valle] with 40 years of culinary experience and skill making a great impression on this Central Oregon community." I spoke to Chef Enrique for a while and really got a sense of how much he cares about building connection through food and how deeply interested he is in making Chupacabra a vibrant and essential destination for Latin cuisine.

After trying the Adobada burrito and barbacoa and chicken tacos, it's going to be hard for me to not stop by weekly. The seating area is more comfortable than ever before with a less casual, more purposeful vibe. From the handmade tortillas, the tender and sweet chicken, the spicy and rich complex heat of the adobada and the slow cooked smokiness of the barbacoa...everything we tried not only tasted authentic and insanely fresh, but had layers of flavor unlike anything I've tasted in the area. No hyperbole either, but the burrito was the largest I've ever received in Bend; so much so that when I cut it open, the adobada, rice, beans and veggies made for an entire plate of food. Really, really delicious food.

On the weekends, Chupacabra is also doing the Carnitas de Puerco Michoacán style, where you can purchase fresh, whole roasted chicken, carnitas, skin and buche. I took home a half pound of carnitas, a half pound of buche (pork stomach) and a pound of warm, literally minutes-old tortillas. For three days I made myself lil' tacos with the Michoacán-style carnitas and the tender buche. Go in on a Saturday at noon and head to the back room and you'll find yourself in carnivore heaven. I already can't wait to go back and try the traditional Michoacán-style mariscos (seafood).

Also being added to the menu at Chupacabra are baked goods from Beso de Azucar, a bakery and dessert spot owned and operated by Crystal Zuñiga.

click to enlarge Latin Cuisine with Soul
Crystal Zuñiga
A delectable treat from Beso de Azucar.

"The inspiration came from my childhood memories of savoring homemade baked goods and desserts during visits to Mexico and my grandmother's house," says Zuñiga. "Those experiences left a lasting impression and motivated me to create a business that could capture that same sense of warmth and authenticity."

Chupacabra impressed on every level, with Chef Enrique Valle bringing 40 years of culinary expertise and Crystal Zuñiga supplying some dangerously delectable desserts, on top of fresh, take home tortillas and meat by the pound. Chupacabra already feels like an important part of the vibrancy of the community and deserves to find a huge base of Latin-cuisine obsessives like myself.

Crystal Zuñiga describes the importance of Chupacabra better than I ever could: "When you step through the doors of Chupacabra's, you can expect to be transported to the vibrant heart of Mexico. From the moment you arrive, you'll be enveloped in a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere. At the core of our dining experience is a diverse menu that celebrates the rich culinary heritage of Mexico. Every dish is crafted with care, using only the freshest, highest-quality ingredients. You can trust that each bite is a testament to the passion and expertise of our kitchen. Our talented chefs pour their hearts into every plate, using vibrant colors, artful garnishes, and thoughtful plating techniques to create dishes that are as visually stunning as they are delicious." Yep, what she said!

Chupacabra Restaurant and Tortilleria
1155 SW Division St., Bend
Tue-Sun 10am-7pm
541-383-2025

Jared Rasic

Film critic and author of food, arts and culture stories for the Source Weekly since 2010.
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